New cutting facility to boost African economy

The opening of a $14 million cutting facility in the South African port city of East London is expected to provide a welcome boost to the country’s beneficiation strategy, which aims to increase the amount of added value the state derives from its natural diamond resources.

This means that Africa will appreciate a significant economic gain as more money from the sale of the stones will remain in-country. (Historically, communities most negatively impacted by diamond mining receive very little benefit.) Though the company plans to hire only Chinese diamond cutters for the first two years, the plan is to hire and train 150-200 locals for these skilled positions.

Read full article on Diamond Topics.

Greater Accountability for Mining and Drilling

A landmark Senate bill that passed last week with provisions that aim to break the connection of drilling and mining with corruption and conflict. Under the amendment included in the Dodd-Frank Financial Reform Act (Wall Street Reform and Consumer Protection Act), companies will need to report to the Securities and Exchange Commission payments that they make to governments. This greater transparency should help prevent mining, oil, and gas companies from making arrangements with governments that represent bad deals for the public wherever those companies are operating.

The bill also contains important measures to ensure that companies importing several metals from countries in the Congo basin report what they have done to ensure that metals sales did not contribute funds to armed groups in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC).

“This bill offers a ray of hope to people in the DRC and around the world who suffer violence and human rights abuse at the hands of armed groups partially funded by mining of gold, tin, tungsten, and tantalum,” said Jennifer Krill, executive director of EARTHWORKS. “These ‘blood metals’ are sold in the global market, and may end up in jewelry and electronic devices on sale in the US. We welcome this new tool that will help the public to hold companies accountable if they are not doing all they can to avoid contributing to these devastating abuses.”

Through the No Dirty Gold campaign, EARTHWORKS has worked to keep mining from contributing to conflict in place like the DRC and elsewhere. The bill bolsters the campaign’s “Golden Rules” criteria for responsible mining and responsible sourcing for retailers, which includes a provision to ensure that operations are not located in areas of armed or militarized conflict. Thanks to this legislative effort, companies will have added incentive to avoid causing and exacerbating conflict.

Blood Diamonds Expected to Flood Market

Blood diamonds will flood back into the worldwide market unless a way is found to bring Zimbabwe back under global control at a key meeting next week, according to one of the world’s biggest diamond tycoons.

Willie Nagel, founding father of the Kimberley Process – a group made up of government, human rights and diamond-industry officials to prevent the trading of diamonds that could be used for financing wars – has warned that Zimbabwe is not adhering to the “clean trade” system.

Read the full article now.

Over the past year, I have written about this issue several times. There has been widespread criticism of the Kimberley Process beyond just their failure to reject Zimbabwe diamonds. The reality is that blood diamonds (conflict diamonds) are entering the market. Consumers who share my concern should be sure to receive documentation about the origin of the diamond they purchase. Kimberley Process certification no longer provides peace of mind.

Conflict-free diamonds – conflicting definitions.

I just came across a rather disconcerting entry on Wikipedia when I searched for “conflict-free diamond.”

Here is how the entry begins:

Conflict-free diamonds are diamonds of certified origin which are guaranteed not to be obtained through the use of violence, human rights abuses, child labor, or environmental destruction. These diamonds are individually tracked through their full chain of custody to ensure that ethical practices are used in mining, cutting and polishing. (The Conflict-free Diamond Council is sited as the source of the definition.)

Here is a the definition of conflict diamonds that is generally accepted:

Conflict diamonds – rough diamonds used by rebel movements to finance wars against legitimate governments. (The source of this definition is the Kimberley Process website.)

Do you see the huge discrepancy here? According to the Kimberley Process, the agency that certifies diamonds as conflict-free, conflict-free has nothing to do with human rights abuses, child labor or environmental destruction. Their definition is much more narrowly defined than what the Conflict-free Diamond Council is saying.

Conflict-free diamonds are not necessarily ethically sourced, but ethically sourced diamonds are always conflict-free.

Rhodium plating of white gold jewelry

Rhodium is a precious metal, a member of the platinum family. Rhodium electroplating is used on jewelry to provide a surface that will resist scratches and tarnish, and give a white, reflective appearance.

Rhodium plating is typically used on white gold. The term white gold is something of a misnomer. Gold is actually yellow, what jewelers call white gold today is an alloy (mixture) of gold and a white metal – usually nickel, silver, or palladium (another member of the platinum family). Metals known as white are actually more of a gray color, so white gold has a yellowish cast. The higher the karat weight, the more gold there is in the alloy, the more yellow the cast appears. Since the wearer of white gold is looking for a bright white look, a very thin layer of rhodium electroplating is used to make that jewelry shine.

It is important to know that rhodium plating does not last forever. The plating on something that takes a lot of wear, like a wedding ring, can wear away in as little as two years, while a necklace or pin that is worn less frequently or comes in less contact with your skin or the elements can keep its plating for many years. Often it is only when the rhodium plating starts to wear (the jewelry will have a yellowish cast) will you realize that the ring had been plated.

Though quality and durability are certainly a concern, the most troubling issue with the practice of rhodium plating is that it is incredibly toxic. When Rhodium solution wears out (and gets weak) it usually poured down the drain. The solution, containing sulfuric acid, is then flushed into the water system. Sulfuric acid is a known cancer causing agent.

It is also unsafe for workers to rhodium plate jewelry. The fumes of working with the chemical are toxic and usually used in an environment with poor ventiliation where workers are not properly outfitted with safety gear. 

When purchasing white gold jewelry, be sure to ask if it has been rhodium plated.

Is it really recycled gold? What do you think?

To my knowledge, there is only one US metal supplier that has third-party certification that their metals are indeed recycled. Many other suppliers make the claim that they use only 100% recycled metals, but no other is able to provide documentation to support the claim.

The other day, I learned that one of the largest jewelry supply companies in the country was now offering ”guaranteed recycled gold” product.  This is very exciting and if it proves true, I would definitely purchase from this company in the future.

The problem is that I can’t get confirmation that it is true. They don’t have third-party certification and they don’t even put it in writing. When I asked for documentation, I received the following letter. (copied word for word)

Dear Customer,

This letter is in response toyour questions regarding XXXX’s sourcing of gold and/or silver used in its production of gold and/or silver jewelry products. We understand your concerns related the potential environmental and cultural impact of certain mining activities.

XXXX and its affiliated companies have always been, and continue to be, committed to conducting all phases of its operations in the most ethically, environmentally, and socially responsible manner possible. The companies from which we purchase our gold maintain policies and procedures, which require social and environmental responsibility on the part of their suppliers. XXXX would reconsider its relationship with said companies if we became aware that they were violating any social or environmental laws.

Only specific braded gold bars or grain are acceptable in XXXX production operations and raw material used in production is recycled internally.

Purchased products are sourced from companies who also have a policy in regard to environmental standards. XXXX requests all suppliers to sign a supplier agreement that states that they follow environmental friendly practices.

If they were really offering 100% recycled product, why wouldn’t they just say that? In my opinion, this is a very weak letter that doesn’t support their verbal claim. What does ”environmental friendly practices” even mean? 

What do you think? If we used this company’s gold, would C5 still be offering sustainable fine jewelry?

TanzaniteOne is now “ethical.” What does that mean?

TanzaniteOne from an ethical perspective has had a reputation. At the JCK Jewelry Show just a few days ago, I spoke with a journalist who had written a piece for GIA several years ago, which was never published for political reasons, on TanzaniteOne production. He told me (and he asked not to be named) that five years ago, the average age of a tanzanite miner was 7 years, and that the average wage was a bowl of rice.

No doubt that this type of behavior is too risky now for a player as major as TanzaniteOne. Regardless of their past conduct, which is not the subject of this piece, I see their concern for ethics now on their website as a positive thing.
Ethical is a very broad word. I have always believed that the term “ethical” carries no real value without specific qualifications. When I was at the Tucson Gem Show last February, there was this table set up for ethical jewelry practices in one of the hotels. What they were really concerned about were business ethics — that is, making claims that were accurate — saying a SI1, G diamond is not a SI2, H diamond, for example.

Yet among those who are concerned with using the market of the jewelry sector to support fair trade and the artisan mining sector, ethical practices mean something entirely different. Ethics encompass social justice, environmental responsibility, fair wages and a completely traceable supply chain from the mine, through cutting and polishing and on to the market.

It is hard to tell what TanzaniteOne is claiming. ‘Mine to market’ has become the big buzz phrase in the industry — two years ago no one even mentioned the phrase. Probably TanzaniteOne has been mine to market for a long time — controlling their supply chain and working within a tight group of polishers. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with their claiming mine to market custody.

The question I have is, what is behind their “ethical” claims? Are they merely adopting the language of “ethical” without really integrating it into their operations to exemplify best practices in the sector? Are they more or less doing what they always have, but now just trying to market it differently? I can’t tell from looking at their site whether their ethical claim is more than just empty words.

When you read what Eric Braunwart of Columbia Gem House is doing when he claims fair trade, you can see that his claims are really backed up with concrete, admirable policies. His initiative is serious, well thought out and integrated. I myself make claims for fair trade manufacturing and I specify what that means. http://carouselbeads.com/about-carousel-beads/fair-trade-practice

Author: Marc Choyt, Reflective Images. This post originally appeared at www.FairJewelry.org.

Have you heard of 19K gold?

In a past post, I explained the differences between the various karat golds. Now, I am happy to introduce 19K white gold as an exciting eco-friendly option.

19K is 79.2% pure reclaimed gold as confirmed in writing by the supplier (Argen). The color is a stable gleaming white on par with platinum. The best part about it is that it doesn’t need to be rhodium plated! Rhodium plating uses various harmful and toxic chemicals that typically end up in the environment.

The reason that it stays the same color is because of the content of the alloy. The mixing of gold, nickel and zinc together (when it is melted to form the karat gold grain) produces the finished product.

Unlike rhodium plating, which is layered on forming a thin skin of whiteness over the off colured white gold (old style ), the color of the 19kt ultra white always remains the same. Not a layered colouring, but the color is set up in the grain structure of the metal. It will always remain the same color.  

 

Just Say “No” to Dirty Gold

No Dirty Gold is an international campaign of EARTHWORKS working to ensure that gold mining operations respect human rights and the environment. Because the vast majority of the gold mined is used to make jewelry, most of those companies in support of the campaign and who have signed the Golden Rules are jewelry manufacturers or retailers.

The Golden Rules call on mining companies to meet basic social and environmental standards, including respect for human rights, protection of fragile ecosystems, and refraining for dumping and contaminating water and soil. 

“Thanks to these jewelers, customers can choose to support companies that have taken a stand against irresponsible mining,” said Scott Cardiff of EARTHWORKS.

The jewelry companies, such as C5 company/Meghan Connolly Haupt, who have recently signed on to particiapte in the No Dirty Gold campaign have done so at a time when mining companies are continuing to push irresponsible mining projects that will impact mothers and community members all over the world.

According to EARTHWORKS:

• Newmont’s Akyem mine would displace thousands of people and destroy a quarter of the forest left in a tropical forest Reserve in Ghana. 
• Infinito Gold’s Crucitas planned mine has already destroyed tropical forest and would threaten waterways in Costa Rica and Nicaragua. 
• Anglo American and Northern Dynasty’s Pebble project in Alaska would threaten fishing livelihoods in one of the world’s last great salmon fisheries.

There are 130,000 jewelry retailers in the United States. Use your consumer dollars to help drive social and environmental change by supporting those companies that support the No Dirty Gold campaign. Learn more about the impacts of traditionally sourced gold.

Russian Diamonds for Conscious Consumers?

We recently received an inquiry asking our opinion about whether or not we, at C5 company, believe Russian diamonds to be an alternative for conscious consumers.

We posed the question to a few of our friends including Greg Valerio, one of the founders of Cred Jewellery, whose opinions we regard highly.

Here’s the deal….

The issue of diamonds is very complex and no perfect solution exists. Responsible companies are at least trying to provide transparency and traceability. Knowing where the diamond is sourced and where it has been cut and polished is key. Ideally, the cutting and polishing would be done in the same community from which the diamond was harvested.

We think that Namibian diamonds are one of the best options for mined diamonds, but they are indeed in very short supply and they are sourced from a De Beers owned mine. We also source from Australia and Canada as they are not war torn countries and have higher environmental standards. Russian diamonds in and of themselves are not good or bad. It depends on where and how they are sourced and brought to market.

Some consumers believe lab-created diamonds to be the most environmentally and socially responsible option. Lab-created diamonds (also called synthetic diamonds or cultured diamonds) have a shorter chain of custody and a smaller carbon footprint than their mined counterpart. However, lab diamonds play no role in supporting the economies of developing countries.